Spreewald Kahnfahrt and a Visit to the Open-Air Museum in Lehde

South and slightly east of Berlin you’ll find one of Germany’s more unusual UNESCO sites, the Spreewald Biosphere Reserve. Formed during the last Ice Age, this inland delta of the Spree River, crisscrossed by 200 water channels and streams through bog land, forest, and meadows, is home to a group of traditional Sorbs or Wends, whose families have been making a living here for generations by farming or fishing. What’s notable is that, like Venice in Italy, the only way to get around this part of the Spreewald is by boat. And in the Spreewald, they call the flat-bottomed boat perfect for navigating the 276 km of channels a Kahn.

Find out what it’s like to take a Spreewald Kahnfahrt.

 

 

Spreewald Kahnfahrt- A Boat Ride through the Spreewald

As an over-planner, I worried we wouldn’t be allowed to ride without advanced reservations, but the system the tour boats have used for years is straightforward. Our trip set off from the Grosser Hafen in Lübbenau, home to the Gürkenmeile! The famous Pickle Mile. There’s plenty of parking. You will find a Kahn, flat bottom boat, or two tied up at the harbor with the boat owner next to it. You’ll also see a sign next to the boats letting you know how long this boat’s trip will last.

Note- Longer trips generally start early in the morning, and specialty trips might require more advanced planning. If you have a larger group, you may need a reservation. Check the website for details.

For a basic 2-3 hour ride, you will likely see a few docked Kahn boats when you arrive at the harbor. Pick the tour that is the right length for you, and you get on. No tickets, no hassle. When he feels enough passengers are on board, off you go. (Money is collected by the person “punting” the boat when he is good and ready.)

 

The Kahns have 7 or 8 rows of seats that fit 2-3 people. The middle rows face tables, which are essential for snack breaks. The Kahns all have different-colored blankets covering the seats, and table decorations vary (this is helpful later when you need to find your boat). At the back is a platform for the boatman, who pushes the Kahn forward with a pole.

 

When the Kahn’s ropes are untied and the boatman shoves off, you glide into another world. No motors (they aren’t allowed), and there are no roads. There are a few bike paths, but even they fall behind the deeper you go into the reserve.

 

The Kahn glides smoothly through the water, passing houses surrounded by flowers and trees. You’ll see meadows of tall grass and small forests of trees. At times, trees touch overhead across the water. All the homes have docks, most have fish trips, and everyone has a mailbox. The Post is delivered by Kahn, and a Kahn hauls the trash away.

 

Once upon a time, each of the homes belonged to a working family. Today, some houses are rentals for vacationers looking to get away.

Find your next Spreewald Home Rental here-> VRBO Spreewald

 

Locals still live in the homes, and a few enterprising families act as snack stops on your trip. On one dock they sold hot tea or cool beer…as well as Spreewald Pickles and Schmalzbrot. (YUM!)

 

The Kahnfahrt through the Spreewald is more than just a peaceful boat ride…it’s a lesson in history.

For hundreds of years, the Sorbian (Wendisch) people farmed the land and fished the waters here. Even today, most of the homes can only be reached by boat. Our boat operator spent his whole life on the water and had many stories to tell.
Family life in the Spreewald traditionally centered on farming. The sandy soil of the Spreewald makes a fabulous growing environment for cucumbers (those famous Spreewald Gurken!) and rye. Since homes were on small islands, the main growing areas would be further away. Fathers would set off at first light, boating out to the fields. Mothers and Grandmothers stayed home to work the home garden, cook, and clean. Children were expected to go to school, also by Kahn. When school was over, they would go to the fields with a meal for the men and await instructions for chores that needed doing. The days were long and hard.

 

Children living on the water quickly understood how to handle the Kahn boats. Parents tied the very young children to the boat for safety. Then, once they were big enough, they stood between their father’s legs, pole in hand, learning to navigate the waters.

The essential Kahn was more than a people mover; families had several different ones, each with its own purpose. Kahn brought everything that the families needed from outside, from tools to shingles, and everything they sold went out by Kahn.

 Open Air Museum at Lehde

At the furthest point of the 2-3 hour trip, the Kahn ties up at Lehde village. This tiny village still survives despite being cut off from roads. There are places to eat, drink, and buy souvenirs. It’s also home to the Ledhe Open Air Museum, which displays life as it was 100 years ago.

 

Buy your ticket, and step back in time. Houses and workshops are staged to look just as they did in days past. Kitchens, bake houses, vegetable gardens, and workshops. In bedrooms you’ll see traditional Sorbian Tracht (clothing) including those magnificently embroidered headpieces.

 

A woman’s dowry, complete with linens and handwritten cookbooks was probably my favorite display.

 

But don’t linger too long… you need to catch the Kahn back out!

 

Disappearing Way of Life

On the way back out, our boatman talked about changes to life in the Spreewald. The days of the Kahnboatman might be numbered since there are fewer tourists every year. The life of a boatman has changed, with new regulations requiring more than just “back of the hand” knowledge of the waterways. The East German government affected family farms, and the transition to a unified Germany wasn’t seamless. Today, many of the young generation moved away looking for better-paying jobs.
Sadly, this kind of life on the canals and waterways of the Spreewald might end up a quaint piece of history.
So go to the Spreewald, and take that Kahnfahrt while you still can. Go for a few hours or all day. See the beauty of the area, enjoy the peace that comes with sitting close to the water, and listen to the boatman’s stories.

And don’t forget to enjoy a few pickles.

 

For More Information about Kahnfahrts from Lübbenau’s Großer Hafen

Find descriptions of the many different tours you can take on a traditional Kahn boat at the –> Grosser Hafen Lübbenau website 
(you can read the site in English or German)

C0st of the ride varies depending on the length of the tour. Bring CASH… the boatmen are independent, and don’t have credit card machines. And bring extra to grab a snack along the way.
There are (obviously) no bathrooms on the Kahn boats, but there is a stop at Ledhe around 50 minutes into the journey. Bring change for the Bathroom Attendant.

The Open Air Museum at Ledhe costs 6 Euros (at the time of this post) for adults (other prices for students/children/seniors). If you take the 2 hour trip, visiting the museum can be tight (you only have a 30 minute stop). Longer Kahn trips have longer stops here. Talk to your boatman.

Want to enjoy more time in Lübbenau?

Stay at the Hotel Spreewaldeckenjoy biking, kayaking, a Kahnfahrt… and PICKLES!

The Gurkenmeile (the Pickle Mile)

At the Großer Hafen you’ll find a row of stands selling the famous Spreewald Gurken (pickles). The stands also sell other pickled delights (as well as Pickle Schnapps) AND they have samples. I wanted to take a bucket home…. (of the pickles not the Schnapps).