There are so many things to see in Munich, Germany, that it’s easy to get overwhelmed. I’m always surprised to find out that people show up in a place, and then ask, “What should we do?” It’s best to go in with a plan, especially if your time is short! There is much more to Munich than the Marienplatz and Hofbräuhaus. Let me share some of my favorite spots with you!
(BTW- I KNOW this list only scratches the surface! I’ve visited Munich a few times now, and I’m always discovering something new. But it’s a starting point)
Things to see in Munich Germany
Marienplatz and Glockenspiel
There is an unwritten rule: when visiting Munich, you must go to Marienplatz and see the Glockenspiel. This large open square is the center of all activity in Munich. Fun fact: The name Marienplatz originates from the Mariensäule (Marien Column) located in the center of the plaza, which was erected to commemorate the end of Swedish occupation following the 30 Years’ War. Today, most eyes are on the Neues Rathaus (New City Hall). Look up at 11 am, noon, and 5 pm (everyone else will be looking up at it too) to see the life-sized figures of the Glockenspiel recreate the wedding of Duke Wilhelm V and Renata of Lorraine, a knight’s battle (spoiler alert, the Bavarian always wins), and the coopers dance to celebrate the end of the plague. Note – the Glockenspiel lasts 12-15 minutes, and since everyone is looking up, this is a great time for “pickpockets” to strike. Protect your things.
Done with the Glockenspiel? Look right. That square building is the Altes Rathaus, currently used as a performance hall. However, you don’t have to wait for an official show, as street musicians frequently perform under the arches. In the tower, you will find the Spielzeug Museum. The musical mobile makes a great meeting place, and jumping off for the Viktualienmarkt.
Take a Tour!
One of the best ways to get the most out of your time in Munich is to take a walking tour. Servus Bavaria Tours is staffed by Locals who know Munich inside and out. And with a number of tours to choose from (with and without delightful food stops) you are certain to come away satisfied that you got to see the best that Munich has to offer.
Viktualienmarkt
What’s so exciting about a victuals (food and provisions) market? The Viktualienmarkt isn’t just pears and grapes, bread and cheese. This central market is open year-round and sells a mind-boggling array of foods. Fresh fruits and vegetables from every corner of Europe, Bread, Cheese, Meat (there is even a horse butcher), and SPICES! Permanent halls were installed for butchers and fishmongers. There are flowers and household decorations.
There are plenty of “take-away” stands to grab a bite to eat, and naturally, this is Munich, after all, there is a Biergarten. It’s easy to lose yourself in the sheer enjoyment of seeing (and smelling) all of these fabulous products.
Note: My favorite shop, Samen Schmitz (near the Nordsee stand), sells a wide range of fantastic items to decorate your windows and gardens. I always come home with the most fabulous souvenirs from here.
The Residenz-
When you think of a Bavarian Castle, the first thing that pops to mind is a Fairy Tale building with Turrets (at least 2). The Residenz is a city palace, the largest in Germany, with 130 rooms (glad I don’t have to clean… or even find people) and 10 courtyards. In the Winter, one of the courtyards becomes the home of the Mittelalter Weihnachtsmarkt, my favorite one in Munich. Put on your comfy shoes, grab a free audio guide, and go!
English Garden
The English Garden is BIG! As big as Central Park in New York. Best way to see the whole English Garden is on a Bike. Ride around until you see a comfortable spot, and take a snooze on the lawn.
Feeling hungry? Stop by the Chinese Tower which has a Biergarten with a HUGE selection of food choices from Sausage to Cake. Or maybe you want to go to the beach? Spread out a towel at the Kleinhesselohersee. Feeling constricted by clothing? Head over to the FKK section of the park (clothing optional).
Or maybe you want to enjoy some surfing… head to the Southern end of the park and look for the crowds of people by the Eisbach, a part of the Isar. The artificially created waves draws talented surfers and people who love to see them. Feel like getting in the water too? Bring a surfboard, and don’t forget your surfboard traction pads if you want to surf here! The water is constantly moving with no time to ease in. More about the surfers here.
White Rose Memorial
Sophie Scholl joined her brother Hans and his friends to form the White Rose Movement to protest the actions of the Nazi government during WWII. They disseminated their message through pamphlets that exposed the situation in their country. “Someone had to make a start. What we said and wrote are what many people are thinking. They just don’t dare to say it out loud, “- Sophie Scholl. They were captured while distributing pamphlets, then executed after a short trial. You’ll find this memorial at the University of Munich.
Churches in Munich
Walking distance from the Marienplatz, you will find several beautiful churches. If you, like me, enjoy Church architecture, be sure to stop in. Pick one or a few that are interesting to you.
Frauenkirche– Since nothing in the center of Munich may be built taller than the Frauenkirche, you can see those onion-domed towers from just about anywhere. It’s nice to have a landmark to keep from getting too lost! You can actually climb to the top and get a fabulous view! (FYI, this is a STRENUOUS climb!). Don’t want to put in that much effort? Look for the Teufelstritt (Devil’s Footprint). Legend has it that the builder of the Cathedral, Jörg von Halsbach, made a deal with the Devil, saying he would build a Cathedral of Darkness. When the Devil realized he’d been tricked, he stomped his foot into the floor!
Michaelskirche– A little further down the pedestrian way from the Frauenkirche is the Michaelskirche. What draws locals and tourists alike is what is found UNDER the Church. Before being taken over by the Bavarian State, the church belonged to the Bavarian Royal Family, and many members of the royal family are buried there, including King Ludwig II (of Neuschwanstein fame). Be mindful, this is a tomb, and people still actively visit to pay their respects. There is NO PHOTOGRAPHY in the tomb. Still, it’s worth seeing.
Heiligergeistkirche – This smaller church is situated between the Spielzeug Museum and the Viktualienmarkt. I wandered in because of the ceiling designed by the famous Asam Brothers. I ended up having the most amazing experience in this “smaller” church. A woman stood before the Mary Altar, and suddenly began to sing. I’ve never heard a more beautiful voice. Everyone in the church stood in silent awe.
Theatinerkirche St. Kajetan– Facing the plaza in front of the Feldherrnhalle (the one with the lions out front) is a yellow Rococo building. While it may not seem imposing on the outside, inside, it’s pretty spectacular- all in white, ornate, and Rococo (think lots of cherubs) with a black Altar. The Dome is breathtaking and worth popping in to see. Elector Ferdinand Maria waited a LONG time for his heir. When his son, the Bavarian crown, Prince Max Emanuel, was (finally) born, he sponsored the building of the Theatinerkirche of St Kajetan.
Asamkirche- In the past year, my fascination with the Asam Brothers has grown, so whenever I find out one of their churches is nearby, I GO! Of all the ones I’ve seen, this is the smallest, most restricted, and yet, the most crazy ornate of all the churches they helped design. Columns, false marble, cherubs, carvings- you notice detail after detail the longer you stand in the foyer. And, by the way, you won’t get past the entrance. It’s gated off. (And the light is pretty dim). But stand for a while. Let your eyes adjust, and really take it in.
Time to EAT and DRINK!!
Hofbräuhaus – If you go to Munich, you have to at least poke your head in to the Hofbräuhaus. Yes, it’s crowded, and there are tourists, but it’s an institution. And it’s entertaining. Usually, there is a band playing, and a few local guys dancing with ladies they swept off their feet. Watching the waitstaff fascinates me. This place is HUGE. Don’t wait to be seated; walk around until you find a place to sit. DO NOT sit at a table that says Stammtisch. Those are for locals only. You will also see Stein Lockers for the locals. Leave those alone. Have a beer, eat something delicious, and enjoy the people-watching.
Ayinger am Platzl – Across the Platzl from the Hofbräuhaus is my favorite place to eat in Munich: Ayinger am Platzl. They serve traditional Bavarian cuisine, as well as unexpected and delicious salads, grilled vegetables, and seafood dishes. It can be a nice change if you’re looking for something a bit lighter. And the beer is quite delicious.
Schneider Bräuhaus- Going the OTHER way from the Marienplatz, you’ll find the Schneider Bräuhaus with their delicious traditional Bavarian food and beer. The specialty is the Eisbock, and it’s not for the faint of heart. They have a few tables outside, which is lovely in summer.
Café Rischart- Get above the crowds of tourists and take a break with a Kännchen (little can) of coffee and a piece of cake. Café Rischart has take-away on the bottom floor and a full-service café upstairs. Enjoy the views and the flavors. Their Eierlikör Torte was the BOMB!
Pocket Munich
My absolute FAVORITE guidebook for Munich is Pocket Munich. It’s compact (fits in an outside pocket of the purse or even, dare I say it, your POCKET). It includes all the maps and tips you could possibly need! Even some fun shopping stops that you shouldn’t miss.
Lonely Planet Pocket Munich (Pocket Guide)
A little further from the Center, but still Munich
BMW World & BMW Museum- A must for Car enthusiasts! The museum is worth seeing, even if you aren’t into cars (it’s a groovy round futuristic building). Then head over to BMW Welt and pick up your new ride.
Olympiapark- Home of the 1974 Summer Olympic Games, the park is still in use for events even today.
Allianz Arena- Home to the Bayern München soccer team. If you are lucky enough to be there on game day, you MIGHT be able to score a ticket. Any other day, tours of the facility are available.
Having been to Munich many times, I must say you have a nice list of places to see and I agree with all of them. Sadly there are too many more to mention in one posting. I will comment on three things. first the Hofbrauhaus. Everyone should see it on their first visit to Munich, after that it is just a tourist trap. Ayinger Am Platz is rightfully your favorite restaurant. Ayinger is by far the best brewery in Bavaria. Last is Schneider, this is the place you will see more locals than about any other restaurant in town. Almost any night you will see tables reserved for a Stammtisch Group. I have friends in the Friday night group at table 18. I think everyone should know that if they go in any restaurant and see a reserved table for a Stammtisch and sit at it prior to the time stated, they will be told to move from that table at the appointed time. Stammtisch reservations are very serious in these restaurants as they are all regular reservations some once a week others once a month.
To be quite honest, I prefer Ayinger… I enjoyed my favorite meal in Munich there. But yes, everyone should, at least once, visit the Hofbrauhaus. Also, we enjoyed a meal at Schneiderweisse. Here is my write up.. I should make another about just food… https://germangirlinamerica.com/beer-mba-tour-of-germany/
If there is a rainy day, why not visit the famous “Deutsches Museum” (German Museum), a museum of science and technology.
What a great idea! Thank you