A German Christmas Market Tour – Magic, Food and lots of Glühwein

I spend more time regretting the things I didn’t do, than the mistakes I may have made. That’s why when I got an email about taking German Christmas Market Tour only days it started, I only hesitated long enough to clear it with my family. After all, a week away in December (well, 10 days with travel), during the busiest family time of the year, is huge. And then there was the “you need to be in Chicago on Tuesday” part. It was a scramble to pack and organize my family. Still… thanks to Bryan and Edie, I was able to join a great group of people on a tour of Christmas Markets in Germany, and it was a trip I will never forget!

Our group of mainly Chicagoans (go Bears) were bused from Munich to a home base in Mitterfels. (Honestly, I had to look it up…it’s in the Mitter of nowhere) (Sorry, that was painful). The Landgasthof Fischer and the next-door Café Schwarz was a central location to all of the Markets. Every day after a delicious German Breakfast we would hop on a bus, and our skillful and ever-patient driver Bene would take us to a new unforgettable city.

German Christmas Market tour

German Christmas Market Tour

An unforgettable week at the Christmas Markets in Germany


German Christmas Markets

Nuremburg’s Christmas Market from Above

This was my first ever visit to Nuremberg, and I can’t wait to go back. We arrived just as the Christkindlmarkt was opening, and I couldn’t wait to taste the Lebkuchen and Glühwein. They didn’t disappoint. The main Christkindlmarkt is in front of the Dom (as so many are) and there are rows and rows of stands with red and white striped roofs. There was so much to see and buy (and eat). Get up high to see the view from the top! The Children’s Market is around the corner, just past the Kinder Punsch and Schaumküssen stand (don’t just pass that stand, they are AMAZING!) There you will find lots of hands on Christmas activities for kids, like a bakery (to make and decorate cookies) and a post office (for sending letters to the Christkind). Around the OTHER corner of the Dom is the Sister City Christmas Market with booths from around the world.  At 3pm the Christkind made an appearance in front of the Dom, and read us a poem. I’m delighted to say that after years of watching for her… I finally got to see her! (with a photo to prove it!)

German Christmas Markets

I met the Christkindl!

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

German christmas Market tour

The Christmas Market by the Rothenburg Dom

Just over 5 months ago my family and I were enjoying Spaghetti Eis in Rothenburg… this time I arrived in the middle of a snowstorm. It felt good to be on familiar (if cold) ground. My new friend Paula and I wandered to the Plönlein, admired a snowy view, shopped the Christmas Market, and enjoyed a delicious lunch at Der Reichsküchenmeister (we even had the same waiter who was there in July… watch for the guy with the Kentucky belt buckle). The Christmas Market in Rothenburg sprawls around the Dom, and has far fewer stalls than Nuremburg, but the town itself is one big year-round Christmas Market with plenty of shops selling Christmas décor and treats. There are 4 or 5 Käthe Wohlfahrt stores. (And it was nice to duck in when the rain started). It’s such an enchanting city, the snow just made it better.

Christmas market tour
Snow in Rothenburg


Christmas market tour
Paula and I started the day with Glühwein

I thought the Marienplatz was crowded in summertime, but oh MY there were a lot of people there shopping (or just wandering aimlessly) in the Christmas Market. Don’t miss the windows of the Galleria Kaufhof,  they are decorated this year with stuffed animals, and many are animated! After a bit of being jostled and bumped, Paula and I headed to the Middle Ages market in the Residenz Courtyard. Old fashioned booths sold items you don’t generally find everywhere else (like bone handled knives and Charivari charms). The animated figures in the Märchenwald had kids wide-eyed! My favorite was probably the Viktuelenmarkt. Yes, yes, I know it’s all year, but at Christmas, you find loads of holiday goodies and décor. Plus, the Biergarten is always open! I HAVE to admire the crowds of locals drinking their beer in the drizzle. My secret shopping tip- go to the Samen Schmitz shop in the Viktuelenmarkt. they honestly have the cutest things!

Christmas markets tour

The Marienplatz Christmas Market


Christmas markets

Advent Market in the Katherinenspital

Another city I need to return to, Regensburg. I decided to start far away from where the bus dropped us work my way back,  so I headed to the far side of the 1000-year-old Steinbrucke (Stone Bridge) to the Advent Market in the Katherinenspital. This cozy market had a tiny but adorable carousel, delicious Feuerzangenbowle, and sheep! The main Christkindl in the Neupfarrplatz is exactly how I imagine Christmas Markets. Stands containing beautiful ornaments, a magical carousel, and so much food and drink, I didn’t even know where to begin! The half-meter sausages? The Baumstreitzel? Eierpunsch? But the Romantic Christmas Market on the grounds and inner courtyard of the Thurn and Taxis Schloss was BY FAR, the most beautiful market of the whole trip. Unlike other Christmas Markets, this one requires an admission fee, but is worth every cent of the 9€. The lighting of the castle and grounds makes it seem you are in a Fairy Tale!  The booths sell high quality goods, and the Christmas Tree that dominates the central courtyard is beautifully decorated. Did I mention the food? Reibekuchen (potato pancakes), Lachs (smoked salmon), Schinken Brötchen (ham rolls) with freshly cooked chopped ham, and of course Sausages. And the special Glühwein made with honey from the Castle’s bees? Unforgettable! Don’t forget to stroll the lit grounds, (And watch for the Princess, it’s her castle, and her market… and she sometimes wanders through)

Christmas market tourThurn und Taxis Christmas Market


Silent night chapelSilent Night Chapel

On the way to Salzburg we made a short stop in Oberndorf.… but not for a Christmas Market. Just over 200 years ago on Christmas Eve, the song “Silent Night” was performed here for the first time. The tiny memorial chapel sits on a hill, and is open for visitors. Somehow our whole group managed to squeeze inside, and then they started to sing “Stille Nacht”… that will always be a special memory for me.

silent night chapel

Inside the Silent Night Chapel


mozart kugeln

Mozart Kugeln EVERYWHERE

Ok, Salzburg isn’t in Germany, but who cares? At the main Christmas Market near the Dom there were beautiful ornaments and wood carvings. I was fascinated by the decorated egg ornaments, like the ones you hang on an Easter Tree, but with Christmas motifs. And of course, you can buy every sort of Mozart Kugel imaginable!  The Altstadt of Salzburg sprawls a bit between the mountain and the river, so I wandered. There are pocket markets off the Getreidegasse, like the Sternmarkt, that had interesting and different things to see and buy (plus, there is the excitement of discovering a hidden corner!). Our group was taken to the Augustiner Brau at Kloster Mulln to recharge with beer and tasty food. From there I hiked over to the Advent Market Mirabellplatz. This little market seems to attract mainly locals who were enjoying the many Glühwein stands. I loved the candy stand! They had Schokoschirmchen (chocolate umbrellas)! A perfect sweet treat to end my day.

christmas market tour

Advent Market at the Mirabelle


christmas market tour

Feuerzangenbowle for one


Our trip ended in Straubing. Yes, there is a small Christmas Market in Straubing, with the best Feuerzangenbowle cups EVER, but this stop was mainly about ending the trip with a chance to slow down a bit. There are loads of stores in Straubing (to make sure we all got our supplies of Nivea, Chocolates, and for me, books). I was delighted to discover a few churches and chapels designed by the Asam Brothers. Because I’m a history nerd, I paid a visit to the Gäubodenmuseum and their fabulous exhibit of Roman artifacts. My Christmas Market experience ended on the ultimate high note. Just before the bus was to arrive, I raced into the Ursulinen Kirche, the Asam brothers final church. In front of the elaborate rococo altar, a choir of young people sang “the Carol of the Bells”. The music reverberating through that beautiful space brought tears to my eyes.


Christmas market tour

Last group photo in Straubing…missing a few people

Thank You!

I want to thank Edie and Bryan for the opportunity to join them on this amazing adventure. They did such a great job putting the tour together (and keeping the group on track!). I feel like I’ve made friends for a lifetime. With the success of this trip, they may be planning more … just as soon as they recover from this one!

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18 thoughts on “A German Christmas Market Tour – Magic, Food and lots of Glühwein

  1. Loved reading about your tour, having been in most of those places made it extra special. Karen, do you have a source for Dresdener Stollen? I ordered some from a highly regarded store in NY – doesn’t even come close to the real deal.

  2. Oh, what a wonderful trip! Thank you so much for sharing. I lived in Germany for many years, and your pictures make me homesick. Every year I make the German Christmas cookies the way my landlady taught me – Haselnuss Makronen, Zimtsterne, Spritzgebaeck, Hildetoertchen, Loewenzaehne, Anisplaettchen, Marzipan Gebaeck, Vanillkipferl – and I think I need to sit down and eat some and re-read your post.

    Have a very blessed and merry Christmas!

  3. You should have taken your Family as well, kind of lonesome just telling what a good time you have had, my Daughter Karen took hers this Year and they all have a lot to talk about, since I know all those spots from times past.. Merry Christmas

    1. Long story, but basically, they just had room for one… and I asked my family for approval before I left. I made it home in time to give my family a great Christmas.

  4. And next time You have to visit Cologne at the river Rhein, because we have 6 christmas markets in Cologne (that’s actually true), lecker Gluehwein and lecker Koelsch beer. I will be your guide, if you would like. Merry christmas and “Einen guten Rutsch ins neue Jahr 20120”

  5. What a wonderful way to instantly bring back fabulous memories of our tour together, Karen.
    Your collection of daily adventures really was exciting to relive. Thank you so much. Your writing and photo skills are top-notch.

    1. Thank you very much! I really enjoyed getting to know all of you!

  6. I would love to go. It’s been a wish of mine for a long time. Did you go with a tour company?

    1. I went with a small group that was organized out of Chicago and the Schawben Verein. I will let everyone know if and when they do this again.

  7. Love reading your posts on “German Girl in America!!” Please keep them coming. Your trip looked wonderful.

  8. I am so happy that I found your site. I would love to take this tour with you if possible. I collect the incense smokers and steins. Please contact me to keep me informed. Thank you, Donna

    1. Hi Donna,

      I’m working on something for 2021!

  9. I and several others are wanting to do a combination Christkindel markets and beer tour in the fall of 2021. Are you planning such a tour? When do we register and how soon.

    1. If we are able to go, I promise to make an announcement as it happens.

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