Set on a hill in northern Bavaria west of Nuremberg, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, with its virtually untouched Medieval Altstadt, is everyone’s MUST-SEE list. Sadly, I think far too many people just show up, take a photo near the Plonlein, shop for a Christmas ornament at Kathe Wohlfahrt, and then hop back on their tour bus. Do yourself a favor and give your visit more time. There is so much more to do in Rothenburg, Germany. I’ve had the opportunity to visit a few times, both in summer and winter. Let me share some of our favorite things in this beautiful city!
All photos by Karen Lodder GermanGirlinAmerica.com
First, A little history of Rothenburg ob der Tauber
Rothenburg ob der Tauber became a free Imperial city in 1274, meaning the town was self-ruling and answered only to the Holy Roman Emperor. It also meant that Rothenburg could set taxes and gain independent wealth. The money raised was used to build beautiful buildings and robust walls. Flash forward in time, and we come to the Protestant Revolution. Rothenburg swings back and forth between Protestant and Catholic. During the Thirty Years’ War, they were forced to garrison Swedish troops, which cost them thousands of Guilders. By 1650, the town has lost half of its inhabitants because of war. It never quite recovered, and in 1850, the city lost its independence and was annexed to Bavaria.
Why is all this important?
Think about other cities. When there is money, people replace the old buildings with new. They update, renew, and modernize. When there is no money, people make do with what they have. This is why the city seems frozen in time!
Side note: One of my FAVORITE stories about Germany) During World War II, the US Army was poised to destroy Rothenburg because they suspected the city was housing Nazis. Only the intervention of the assistant US Secretary of War, John McCloy, slowed that down. Why? His mother had visited Rothenburg as a young woman and brought home a painting of the city. John McCloy grew up looking at that painting in his home. There was no way he would let it be wiped out. (His mother would kill him.) He sent in a mission to encourage the town to surrender. Local military commander Major Thömmes gave up the city. And Rothenburg ob der Tauber was saved.
Things to do in Rothenburg Germany
Photograph the Plönlein
The Plonlein in Rothenburg ob der Tauber might be the most photographed and painted spot in Germany next to Neuschwanstein (don’t quote me; I’m just guessing by the sheer number of images I’ve seen online and the vast crowds of people in front of it with cameras). The name Plönlein refers to the triangular square (yes, confusing) where the roads branch. It contains a fountain and a wood-topped box fishermen used to store their catch. From that spot, you can see 2 of the town’s gates- the Kobolzell Gate and the Sieberts Tower.
Best time to get that iconic shot with no one else in it? 2AM. (kidding… before 9am and after 7pm the tourist crush is reduced enough to get that clear shot)
Walk the Walls
Walking the walls is a great way to get an overhead view of Rothenburg. You will find staircases leading up in various places around town (we used the one near the Plönlein). Go as far as you like, walk the 2 mile length, or go a few 100 meters to get the feel of it. You will see plaques along the wall displaying the names of people who helped pay for renovations in 1948. (Walt Disney is there, which is only fitting since Rothenburg turns up in a few Disney movies).
The walkway is covered, and the doorways are LOW. (watch your head).

Rathaus and Market Square
The Rathaus and Market Square are in the Altstadt’s center, making a great starting point, ending point, meeting place, and spot to get an Eis. There are tours of the Rathaus, and you can climb up the tower for another bird’s eye view of the town.
From the Market Square, you can see the famous Ratsherrntrinkstube. Every hour on the hour (between 10 am and 10 pm, little doors beside the clock open, and you are treated to a re-enactment of the famous “Meistertrunk” depicting the time the mayor saved the town from destruction by drinking 3 1/2 liters of Franconian wine in one big guzzle (it took him 3 days to sleep it off). It’s high up and hard to see, but it’s a great story.
Drinking away on the hour…
Nightwatchman Tour
The Market Square is also the spot to meet up with the nightly Nightwatchman tour. If you need ANY justification for spending the night in Rothenburg, this is it. The tour isn’t overly long, but it is fun, interesting, engaging, and worth every cent. Take the tour in English or German.
You can read my full review of the tour here–> Nightwatchman Tour Rothenburg ob der Tauber
St Jakobskirche
Go north from the Marktplatz to the St. Jakobskirche. Inside you will find the Altar of the Twelve Apostles, an absolutely fabulous carved and painted Altar. The St Jakobskirche also houses the Holy Blood Altar, which contains a splinter of the True Cross encased in a glass container up high. Sit down and enjoy the stained glass windows and the quiet.
Holy Blood Altar
Markus Tower and Röder Arch
The Markus Tower, with its clock and Röder Arch, dates back to the 12th century and was part of the original city wall. The flower-covered Röderbrunnen (Röder Fountain) makes a picturesque spot to snap a photo.
Now look up! On the building next to the Marcus Tower and the Röder Arch, you’ll see the stork nest on the platform, and if you are lucky, the storks will be in residence.
Medieval Crime and Justice Museum
I will come right out and say it: the Medieval Crime and Justice Museum is one of my favorite things to do in Rothenburg, Germany. The museum is well laid out and completely fascinating (of course, I’m also a fan of reading mysteries and watching Criminal Minds). Inside, you will find torture devices like the Violin and shame masks, thick books on Medieval Law, an IRON MAIDEN (no, not the rock band), and a section on Witch Hunts complete with an original edition of the Malleus Malificarum / Hammer of the Witches.
Take my word for it, teenagers may not be thrilled looking at yet another church or old building, but they will enjoy this.
Iron Maiden- Medieval Kriminal Museum
Christmas Museum
Looking for a much less gruesome exhibit? Upstairs in one of the six Kathe Wohlfahrt stores (yes, there are six of them in town) is the Christmas Museum. Inside, you will find the evolution of Christmas ornaments and decorations. From Nuts to glass, paper to tin. I’m crazy about small museums, so I enjoyed it. (Tech Guy was more than happy to sit on the bench across the street.) After touring the Museum, you can shop to your heart’s content. Kathe Wohlfahrt stores are a one-stop shop for Christmas ornaments, pyramids, tablecloths, and decorations. They also carry Easter decorations.
Masterbuilder House-
While walking down the Schmiedgasse, you will notice one building with 14 figures carved into its columns. This home, the Masterbuilder house, belonged to master stonemason Leonhard Weidmann, who clearly understood marketing. The intricately carved figures represent the seven vices and seven virtues of men.
Burggarten
Have you had enough buildings and people for a while? Head out the Castle Gate to the Burggarten. A low wall surrounds this long, narrow bit of land and offers fabulous views of the valley. It also offers benches and shade. It’s a fantastic place to enjoy a snack, rest, and drink. Stand at the wall and look back for a great view of the city.
Hike OUTSIDE the Walls
I’m a walker, so hiking / wandering outside the city is one of my favorite things to do in Rothenburg.
One way to avoid a lot of tourists is to take a nice hike OUTSIDE the city walls. Remember, when you go down, you have to hike back up! Grab a map in any hotel, shop, or tourist info kiosk. The trails are well marked through the Tauber Valley. The river is lovely, and you will see some small waterfalls and watermills on the Muhlenweg. We even came across an Alpaca Farm! And there is a Biergarten at about the halfway mark.
Then you cross over the Double Bridge, and walk past the Kobozell Church to get back in the Kobolzell Gate.
Rothenburg Christmas Markets
I managed to be in Rothenburg in July and AGAIN in December! It was interesting seeing the town in the snow! We arrived in a snowstorm, which slowed this California girl down just a bit.
Compared to other Christmas Markets, Rothenburg’s is more spread out. AND since there are so many shops in town carrying Christmas Items, I felt that there were fewer stands. It doesn’t matter! Visiting the Rothenburg ob der Tauber during the Christmas Season is magical! Just bring a jacket and comfortable shoes!
Read more about my Christmas Market adventures here–> Christmas Market Tour
Have You Worked up an APPETITE?
There are some great places to eat in Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Here are a few of our favorites.
And I feel I need to put in a disclaimer. EVERYWHERE in Rothenburg you will see “Schneeballe” (Snowballs) made from pastry covered in chocolate or powdered sugar. Somehow, I never tried one, so I can’t tell you what they are like. They certainly look interesting.
Zur Höll
If you’ve walked all over Rothenburg, you deserve dinner in Hell… well, Zur Höll. The building dates back to 900 AD and is the oldest and one of the more interesting-looking buildings in Rothenburg ob der Tauber. The food is excellent! If you want to ensure a table, make a reservation; it’s a rather popular place to eat.
Reichskuchenmeister
In the summer, their shaded patio gives you a fantastic view of St Jakobskirche, and in winter, the restaurant is a cozy and comfortable escape from the cold. I was delighted to eat at the Reichskuchenmeister TWICE this year (with the same waiter!) The food is excellent, and the beer is refreshing. The menu changes with the seasons. I had the most amazing Flammkuchen in July, and a Wildgoulasch with Spätzle was so good that I practically licked the plate in December. Don’t miss this wonderful place.
Eis-Cafe Dolomite
Visiting Rothenburg in the Summertime? You need to stop for an EIS. The Eis-Cafe Dolomite is right on the Market Square, and is perfect for savoring a Spaghetti Eis while people-watching!
Looking for a place to Stay?
We stayed in the Boutique Hotel Goldene Rose. It’s a delightful place near the Plönlein. The beds are comfy, the breakfast is perfect, and it’s central to everything. We just parked the car and never had to move it for 3 days. Say hello to Diamond for me!
Find them HERE–> Boutique Hotel Goldene Rose
Have I convinced you there are enough things to do in Rothenburg ob der Tauber?
Book your trip NOW!
Been there 3-4 TIMES and enjoyed each trip. Last trip was in December 2018. Had dinner there with my wife and daughter and her family. Years ago we purchased a beautiful clock from the clock store. In fact, my wife is German.
Visited Rothenburg in 1996 and took a tour with the night watchman . It was wonderful. Can’t believe the same night watchman is still there.
Pretty sure the same guy was the Nightwatchman already in the 1500s…
I have been there there times and just love it. I loved walking the wall. We’ve been at Easter time, and everything was decorated beautifully. Yes, you must stay the night. The sneeballen aren’t bad. Not gourmet, but sweet. I had the most delicious roasted goose dinner twice. Yum. We are returning to Bavaria in April. I can’t wait.
I’ll need to visit in Springtime next
My favorite town in the world! You captured all of my favorites, Kriminal museum and Night Watchmans tour!
Aren’t they great!
I’ve been there 4 times. The last time was this Christmas. The Christmas Market is small, but the whole town was enchanting as usual.
You are right.. compared to other towns, the Christmas market was small. HOWEVER, there are 4 or 5 Käthe Wohlfahrt stores, and lots of other cute shops in the Altstadt, so maybe they don’t see more as needed?
I went to school in Rothenburg ob der Tauber and loved it there. The Krimi Museum is fantastic but a bit macabre, the food is excellent everywhere, The city is beautiful and the people are friendly. The Reichsstadt-Festtage/Imperial City Festival in early September is so interesting, it was my favorite event of the year! Look forward to returning one day.
I would love to see that festival! I’ve seen Summer and Winter in Rothenburg, it’s time to see Fall.